Sailing to France

While I’ve enjoyed my time in England, I’m aware that a lot of my enjoyment is derived from knowing a bit about the culture and generally speaking the language. Being able to sit in a pub and be pulled into a conversation has been a normal occurrence. Knowing what was being said by people around me, being able to read signs – all the little things I take for granted – will not be so when my ferry docks tomorrow. I don’t speak French. I didn’t take it in school, the accent is completely foreign to me – and very intimidating. My past attempts to speak to natives have resulted in various failures, the most memorable being when I tried to order a baguette in a boulangerie. The woman I spoke to winced when I spoke – I’ll never get that image out if my mind! But that was then. I can still try if I can think of what to say. Problem being I haven’t studied at all. I guess I should have realized that since I changed my plans to include the ferry crossing to Roscoff, most of my trip will actually be in France, not Spain. Oops. Tomorrow I will be fucked 😉


The Gift

I was driven all the way to my campsite by Oz, the passerby who stopped to help after seeing me crash. As it happened, he was heading past Newbury on his journey home, and offered to take my bike in the back of his work truck. How did I know this was the right decision – jumping into a strangers vehicle in a foreign country? Perhaps it was simply the way all the pieces came together, but it was clear to me that the universe was offering a solution to my new problem, so I accepted his offer. Oz was soft spoken and had a warm vibe. Yes, Ted Bundy was a charming man and a serial killer, but my gut said this was going to be ok. However, finding myself bloody, shaken and bruised in the cab of his truck crowded with his work gear seemed a bit dreamlike. One minute I’m humming down the road at a good clip, the next I’m having a slo-mo slam on the ground and shortly thereafter bike and gear and self are riding along the motorway. It was a strange and unexpected turn to the day.

I thought about the last hour. People I didn’t know – strangers – had come to my assistance. They responded to my situation with kindness, without being asked. I”d felt awkward and uncomfortable being vulnerable and being taken care of by others. But I had to accept that I needed help and the help was right there. It was just so clear – problem encountered, solution presented. I marveled over the beauty of how this was turning out. I would have been pedaling on, headed toward an uncertain destination, in pain and a bit shockey. The help I was offered was a gift. My ride from Oz was a gift. The universe was telling me something.

Oz patiently found my campsite and unloaded my bike. As I was gathering my gear together, he went and found the camp keeper and had a word. Oz waited to be sure I was good to go, and then I thanked him again and he drove off. I paid the camp keeper £5 of the £6 fee – of course, I hadn’t yet stopped for money or food for camping – and the camp keeper waived off my promise of bringing him the £1 I still owed. A hiker had overheard my situation and came up to give me the £1. Wow, people are killing me with their kindness today! I declined his kind offer and rolled my bike and essential gear to the camp area.

It was a beautiful evening – warm, and the sun still high in the sky at 8pm. I looked around the camp area and saw a good spot and headed for it. I also saw there were other cyclists in camp. I wasn’t alone. I pitched my tent and set up my few creature comforts. I was so high from the day. My bloody leg was like a badge. My heart was filled with the goodness of people. I was humble and grateful and happy.

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The Excitement

The first day. Ah, what a day! I woke early (or didn’t sleep, would be more accurate) and looked out the window – grey and wet. Welcome to England. Well, I knew what I’d signed up for and didn’t stress over the weather – I had things to do, such as unpack and assemble my bike, so I got busy. A friend came by and picked me up to deposit me in Eton, west of London and close to the bike route I would be taking. I was safely deposited, along with all my gear, on the pavement of Eton’s high street. I attached my panniers and, tent, etc and was left with my small backpack on my back. Not ideal for 54 miles, but it didn’t fit in the panniers. Oh well!

I got going in the right direction eventually, with just a few false starts. And then, I was on The Path! And the sun came out! And the roses were fragrant! And life was *perfect*! I rode through fields and along the canal on a singletrack path, complete with ruts, stumps and my first water crossing of the trip. My bike bounced along stoutly, and seemed to be bearing the load admirably. I was doing it! I couldn’t stop smiling. I felt like the sun was my welcome gift. I pedaled on.

Hours later, I was still pedaling on. I realized that my average speed was, well, embarrassingly minuscule actually, and wondered how I was going to traverse all these miles before dark. Granted, it wouldn’t be dark until after 10…but as it was I didn’t even have water in my bottles. The excitement was good, but it wasn’t going to carry me on it’s own. I needed water desperately and it was past due food time. I hadn’t started riding until after 2pm, hadn’t had anything but breakfast, and it was after 4. Time to take a break. I spotted a pub and shakily parked my bike. I clacked into the pub with my water bottles and politely asked for a glass of water and menu. I drank the water in a gulp and the bartender asked if I’d like my bottle filled. Gratefully, I accepted. I ordered some food and went outside to a table in the garden. The bartender brought me more water and asked me where I was headed. He was surprised when I told him. “That’s a good distance – must be 30 miles from here”. Yeah, I know…I pulled my map out to look for a Plan B option to stop somewhere after Reading, rather than going to my planned destination of Newbury. Nothing seemed super obvious, so I was momentarily without a backup plan. No worries, it would work out.

Back on the bike and fortified with food and water, I was determined to make better time. I was on a nice smooth ‘A Road” that was fairly wide and had a bit of a shoulder. And it seemed to have a very slight downhill grade, which motivated me to reach speeds in the low 20s. Life was good. I needed to check my location before this coming roundabout though, so I would pull over. Except I crashed. Yep, and hard. (more about this later).

The end result was that everything did work out – I was actually given a ride all the way to my campsite by a kind passerby who stopped to help when he saw me go down. People came to my aid – strangers went out of their way to help me. I was connected to people and made friends for the moments when it mattered. My smile wavered while I assessed my condition, but I think it just got bigger after that. Nothing broken, no concussion – just some nasty road rash and a couple small cuts on my head. Life was good, people were good and I was blessed. My heart was overflowing.

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Crash

My front wheel rejected the command to go up the curb, instead slamming into it and turning parallel to my line of travel. I was pitched forward and went down hard, seeming to meet the pavement in fast and slow increments as I felt my helmet smash hard on the ground and then felt my actual head meet the pavement. Which wasn’t supposed to happen, I thought in the moment. My left side in general hit quickly after that. Get the bike off the road. Get out of the way. I scrambled up and dragged my bike onto the sidewalk, surprised to see blood running everywhere. It was in my eye and dripping onto the ground, on my bike. “Are you ok? Oh no, sit down, you’re bleeding everywhere. You’ve hit your head’. People materialized and were telling me I was hurt. “I’m fine”, I said several times. Was I hurt? I hurt, but…I took inventory: left hand shredded and bloody (no gloves on), head hurt – keep an eye out for signs of concussion – but not cracked. My left shoulder was pretty sore, but operable so nothing broken. Left leg bloody and missing flesh at the side of my knee, scraped elbow. Everything else felt intact. “Where’re you from, luv?” asked the woman. “California.” I replied, noticing that taking felt a little odd. “California?!” They both exclaimed, “what’re you doing here, luv?” asked the woman incredulously. “Riding my bike. I’m going to Newbury”. “Newbury?? Why on earth…We’ll, you’re not going to Newbury now!” she exclaimed. “Come over here to the petrol station – let’s get some help”. “I’m fine,” I repeated, embarrassed at the fuss being made by strangers who felt the need to help. I imagined my crash had been a bit of a visual treat. “Why don’t you come over to my bit then luv – I’ll make you a cup of tea and you can get yourself sorted”, the woman was saying. I looked at her for the first time. She was missing two teeth in front had some bad tattoos. In other circumstances she might be someone to be wary of. But she was concerned, and true kindness showed in her eyes. The man who was there was grappling with my bike – the handlebars now faced a new direction – and we walked a few yards away from the street toward the petrol station. “Why don’t we go in and see what they have in their medical kit that can help” said the woman, indicating the shop. “We can have my daughter watch your bike”. I assessed the situation – was this a setup to take my shit? The man wasn’t with her, he’d been driving and pulled over when he saw me go down. “I’ve got your bike”, he said. Then he said, “I’m going by Newbury – on my way to Swindon. I could drop you there”. Blood continued to run down my face as I tried to this in. It was all so strange. “Let’s get you sorted” said the woman, taking charge again and leading me into the convenience store. People swung their heads as we entered – Jesus, I was feeling like a side show. “Oy – where’s your medical kit?” I stood at the counter with my new friend while the manager scrambled madly to find his first aid kit. I felt like we were holding up the store. He handed over the entire box to the woman and suggested it might be best to go to the toilets to deal with my wounds. He pointed. I went. I set my helmet down and looked in the mirror. Ugh. I turned the water on and stuck my grated hand under the tap. Better to do it now while I couldn’t feel as much – it would only hurt more later I thought, wincing. The water ran red and then I could see my hand better. It was raw and shredded. I washed it hard to get any grit out. I selected some toilet paper and wet it and wiped my face. There were two small cuts at my temple. I blotted them and they stopped bleeding. I cleaned the blood off the rest of my face. The woman, whose name was Sara, came into the toilet. “Oh, that’s much better! You don’t look half as bad now!” We walked outside and there was the man with my bike. “So, would you like a ride to Newbury then?” he asked and pointed to his work truck. “I can put the bike in the back”. I hesitated – again, this was so surreal. How was it that he even had a truck for my bike? I looked at him. He had a kind expression, but so did Bundy. I didn’t feel threatened, but I was shaken so maybe my instinct wasn’t working properly. The woman chimed in with her opinion that this would be perfect, and while I couldn’t say she was a great judge of character, I decided that yes, I would take his offer. There was something bigger at work it seemed, and I needed to go with the bigger plan at hand.

I thanked the woman (and her daughter, who I was introduced to along with their bulldog puppy) again for her help and her kindness. I could feel the positive energy emitting from her in response to her actions of helping a stranger. It was a good energy to be a part of and I carried some of it with me as I got into the man’s truck. Oz was his name. He seemed a kind and gentle person. He drove me the 30 plus miles to Newbury, all the way to my campsite. Along the way we chatted abut life – how short it can be, missed opportunities, and how we as a society focus on material status rather than true happiness. It was a meaningful conversation, deep. I knew I was where I was supposed to be, doing at that moment what I was meant to be doing in that moment – driving along the motorway with a stranger having a deep conversation about the meaning of life. I wasn’t worried, my wounds hurt but I was ok. I looked out the window – it was a sunny evening and I felt warm and secure. The adventure had begun.


Andiamo

I looked at Gary as he drove the behemoth Ford toward the airport. “I don’t know what I’m doing”, I said. He flicked an eye my way. “I know”, he said. “No, really. I have no idea what I’m doing or what this will be like.” I sighed. “Yeah, I know.” But did he know? How could he, when I didn’t even know what I was getting myself into. As it was, all my careful planning and agonizing over every gram of gear had already gone out the window – after all the practice packing I was left in a fit of indecision over items I wanted but didn’t know I would need. In the end I’d shoved a bunch of crap into a large suitcase with the vague notion that I would make final decisions at Natalie and Ian’s before I had to leave on the bike. Sigh.

But there was a sense of relief also – the bag was closed and we were on our way. The bike was handily packed in a shipping box with hope of intact arrival. I was going to check in early and hopefully get a decent seat – who knew – maybe an upgrade!

Gary pulled into the short term parking and unloaded my heavies while I made sure no small essentials fell out of my bulging backpack. So many cords, plugs, devices – *things*. Ugh. I didn’t like having so much to keep track of, but it was my load for now anyway, and I couldn’t drop any bits.

I grabbed a cart and Gary loaded it up. “Let’s say bye here, it’ll be easier”, I volunteered, not wanting to draw the process out. ” – if you want”, I added. “Ok, yeah”, he said with some relief – he must he must have felt the same thing. I steeled myself – I wouldn’t cry. “Ok, bye then!”, and we kissed and hugged and I cleared my throat and bit the inside of my lip. I turned the cart toward the elevators. “Do you want help?” “No, I’ve got it”, I said as I wedged the cart between two pylons. Gary freed the cart and we tuned the bike box vertically and wheeled it through the opening elevator door. “Ok then! Bye!”, and out he went as I pressed the button. The door shut and the tears welled, but I breathed through them and they didn’t flow. I was scheduled to be away two months – no use crying already!

I wheeled my unwieldy load to the Virgin counter, and was asked if I wanted to give up my seat for a round trip ticket plus hotel and meals? Now how often does that offer come up when I’m traveling solo and without a set schedule?!But I’d made plans to meet a friend on the other end and felt bad about canceling, so I passed on the offer. Hopefully Id have the same opportunity on the return trip – haha.

And here I am, bike and bag checked, security cleared and food and beer consumed in the traditional international terminal establishment, site of numerous happy vacation and travel starts. And they’re calling my flight.

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T – 72

ImageIt’s getting real. Ready or not, I leave on a plane Monday evening, bike, camping gear and essential items in tow. ‘Essential items’ doesn’t feel as minimalist as it sounds when it’s packed on the bike! Especially this week when I ventured out in the heat. More than a moment of doubt as I struggled to get from point A to B. I had to stop frequently and seek out shady spots roadside. It took me a while to realize that touring will be more like this – stopping, taking time, seeking shelter, going slow – than any ride I’ve done before. My bike plus gear, excluding water at 2lbs a liter, weighs in at 58lbs. My road bike weighs 18lbs. (Strava isn’t the right tracking program for a tour!) Read the rest of this entry »


Addicted to You

 

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Well, not you personally, but you collectively. Connectedly. One of the things I am looking forward to on my trip is letting go of constant connection via technology. Saying that, I am armed with it for the trip, from iPhone to Garmin to iPad, but due to the cost of service I will have to be disconnected pretty much all day, with only a little bit of time each day to check in. And I will rely on my phone for GPS directions and map, but even this seems more than I want. Wouldn’t it be lovely to simply ride and be free of everything electronic? I am sure it would enhance the experience by allowing me to be absorbed by what is at hand, to be present and in the moment, and not distracted by a device. Couldn’t I just do this at home? Well, the short answer is “Yes”, but it seems to be more difficult than just doing it. Even right now, I remembered I had to send a text, so I interrupted my writing to do it – that’s awful (but if I didn’t do it, I’d forget again!). Technology is a form of communication at home, and we all rely on it to keep us connected, in the loop, up to date and in the know. Personally, I could live without it, but then I’d be hard to get a hold of. The beauty of being away is that it’s expected that I will be hard to get a hold of, therefore I can experiment with freedom from devices. Saying that, the first step to recovery is being able to admit your addiction – I am Tracy D. and I am addicted to electronic communication. But … you’re a hard habit to break!